The core test
Paying off debt is an investment. When you clear a loan charging 18%, you have earned a guaranteed, tax-free 18% return on that money. No market can promise that, and nothing about it depends on how the JSE performs this year.
So the question becomes a comparison:
The rule
If your debt's interest rate is higher than the return you can realistically expect from investing after tax, pay the debt.
If it is clearly lower, investing has the mathematical edge - but the certainty of debt repayment still has value the maths does not capture.
Two adjustments make this comparison honest, and both favour repaying debt more than people expect:
- Investment returns are uncertain; debt interest is not. A 15% expected return is a hope. A 15% interest charge is a fact that arrives every month whatever the market does.
- Investment returns are often taxed; debt repayment is not. Earning 12% in a taxable account leaves you with less after CGT and dividends tax. Paying off 12% debt is a clean 12%. See how investment tax works in South Africa.
Sorting your debt into three tiers
| Tier | Typical examples | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Toxic - high double digits and above | Store accounts, credit cards, payday loans, revolving credit | Clear it before investing anything beyond an employer match |
| Middling - roughly prime to prime plus a few points | Personal loans, vehicle finance | Prioritise repayment, but keep retirement contributions running |
| Cheap - at or near prime, or subsidised | Home loans, some student loans | Genuinely debatable - many people do both |
Toxic debt: no debate
Credit cards, store accounts and short-term lenders charge rates that comfortably exceed any realistic long-term investment return. There is no strategy that beats simply making this stop.
The urgency is not just the rate - it is that this debt compounds against you on a monthly cycle. The same mechanism that makes compound interest so powerful for investors works at speed against borrowers. Attack it first.
Middling debt: mostly repay
Vehicle finance and personal loans usually sit above what you can reliably expect from investing after tax. Prioritise repayment - but do not stop retirement contributions to do it, particularly if an employer match is involved. Turning down a match to pay off a loan a few months earlier is almost always a bad trade.
Cheap debt: the real question
A home loan at or near prime is the interesting case. Long-run share market returns have historically exceeded typical bond rates, which argues for investing the surplus instead of paying extra into the bond.
But the counter-arguments are strong:
- Certainty. Paying down your bond returns exactly the bond rate, guaranteed, with zero volatility.
- Rates float. South African home loans are typically variable, so a comfortable rate today can become an uncomfortable one - see inflation and interest rates explained.
- Early payments do disproportionate work. Extra payments in the early years of a bond, when almost all of your instalment is interest, cut the total interest paid dramatically and shorten the term by years.
- Risk capacity. A smaller bond means smaller fixed obligations, which means you can take more investment risk elsewhere and survive a job loss more comfortably.
Reasonable people split this both ways, and splitting the difference - extra into the bond and a monthly investment contribution - is a perfectly sensible answer. Very few people reach retirement wishing they had a larger bond.
The three exceptions that override the maths
Regardless of interest rates, these come first:
- A starter emergency fund. Get roughly one month of expenses into an accessible account before attacking debt aggressively. Without it, the next unexpected expense goes straight back onto the credit card and you never actually get ahead.
- Your employer's retirement match. If your employer matches contributions, that is compensation. Take the full match before directing extra money anywhere - even at toxic debt.
- Debt you are behind on. If you are missing payments or facing legal action, this is a different problem. Speak to a registered debt counsellor rather than optimising a portfolio.
A practical order
- Cover minimum payments on everything - always.
- Build a one-month starter emergency fund.
- Contribute enough to get the full employer retirement match.
- Attack toxic debt with everything spare.
- Build the emergency fund to three to six months.
- Clear middling debt while keeping retirement contributions running.
- Start investing properly - TFSA, then more.
- Decide on cheap debt - extra into the bond, invest, or both.
Our guide to investing your first salary covers steps five onward in more detail.
Avalanche or snowball?
Once you are attacking debt, two methods dominate:
- Avalanche. Minimums on everything, every spare rand at the highest interest rate first. Mathematically optimal - you pay the least total interest.
- Snowball. Minimums on everything, every spare rand at the smallest balance first. Costs slightly more in total, but each account you close is a visible win.
Avalanche wins on paper. Snowball wins for people who need to see progress to keep going, and a plan you finish beats a better plan you abandon. If you have several small debts and low motivation, snowball. If you have one large expensive debt, avalanche is obvious anyway.
The best debt strategy is not the one that saves the most interest on a spreadsheet. It is the one that ends with the debt actually gone.
The psychological argument nobody puts in the model
Debt carries costs the interest rate does not capture. It constrains what jobs you can leave, how much risk you can take, and how you sleep. People who clear their debt consistently report a change in how they think about money that no spreadsheet predicted.
If a modest, low-rate debt is genuinely bothering you, paying it off is a legitimate choice even when the maths says invest. You are buying something real. Just make the trade knowingly rather than pretending the numbers said so.
What not to do
- Do not invest with borrowed money. Taking a personal loan to invest means paying a certain rate for an uncertain return, with the loss amplified if it goes wrong.
- Do not raid your retirement fund to clear debt. Withdrawal taxes and decades of lost compounding usually make this far more expensive than the debt.
- Do not wait for zero debt to learn. While clearing debt, read, build the plan and open the account. Understanding compounds too, and it is free.
- Do not take on new debt while repaying old. Obvious, and the single most common reason repayment plans fail.
Get ready for the next step
Clearing debt and investing are the same project at different stages, and the habits are identical: a fixed amount, automatically, every month. When the debt is gone, redirect that exact payment into a monthly investment contribution - you are already used to living without it. See how to automate your investing.
In the meantime, the EZvest Learning Hub and FinBot are free ways to build the knowledge so that when the money is available, you know exactly what to do with it. It is an educational tool - it explains, you decide.
Frequently asked questions
Should I pay off my credit card before investing?
Almost always yes. Credit cards and store accounts typically charge interest well above any return you can reasonably expect from investing, and paying them off is a guaranteed, tax-free return equal to that rate. Clear high-interest debt before putting money into the market.
Should I pay off my home loan or invest?
This is the genuinely debatable one. Home loan rates in South Africa are usually lower than long-run expected share returns, which argues for investing - but paying down the bond is a certain return while market returns are not. Many people split the difference, doing both, and few regret having a smaller bond.
Does it matter that investment returns are taxed and debt repayment is not?
Yes, and people routinely forget it. Paying off debt at 12% is a tax-free 12%. Earning 12% in a taxable investment account leaves you with less after capital gains and dividends tax. The comparison should be made after tax, which tilts the maths further toward repaying debt.
Should I stop my retirement contributions to pay off debt faster?
Generally no, especially if your employer matches contributions - declining a match is refusing part of your salary. Retirement contributions also carry a tax deduction. Pausing them is a last resort for genuinely severe high-interest debt, not a routine strategy.
What is the debt avalanche method?
Paying minimum amounts on all debts while directing every spare rand at the highest interest rate debt first, then moving to the next highest. It is mathematically optimal. The alternative snowball method targets the smallest balance first for psychological momentum, and for many people that motivation is worth the slightly higher total cost.
Build the habit once the debt is handled
Short lessons, a clear portfolio view and FinBot to answer the awkward questions. 10 free credits when you sign up.
Launch EZvest - it's free to start ->Educational content only. This article is general information, not financial advice. Interest rates, tax rules and thresholds change and depend on your circumstances. If you are struggling with debt, consider speaking to a registered debt counsellor. Consult a licensed financial professional before making decisions. How we research and review these guides.